Filigree from traditional to contemporary
Filigree it’s a traditional jewelry making technique using find metal threads, usually gold or silver. My designs for filigree work have been derived from ancient processes, yet the work is created with a distinct contemporary vision. I push the fabrication process to its limits in experimentation with line and form, be they straight and austere or curved and intricate.
Every piece of jewelry in my collection is an experiment and one of a kind.
The art of filigree can only be made by hand. Different small parts are created, then soldered together to build up a wearable sculpture. I use fine and sterling silver and incorporate precious stones, gold, copper, and other metals. Often for a single ring or pendant, I might have to use 100 ft. of wire.
Course description.
This class is focused on filigree technic fabrication and designing. First day begins with fundamental instructions to make metal threads and overview the process with samples, demos and hands on projects. Second day, students will make a variety of filigree parts and assemble the design. Third and fourth day is dedicated to completing the works and exploring beyond the limits of traditional patterns to create a contemporary vision. Basic soldering skills are very helpful, how ever students with no soldering experience are very welcome.
Material List
Each student mast bring their own silver as listed below.
Round sterling silver wire 22 Ga dead soft = 1/2 OZ
Square sterling silver wire 20 Ga dead soft =1/2 OZ
Round sterling silver wire 18 Ga dead soft = 1/2OZ
Round FINE SILVER wire 26 Ga dead soft =1 OZ
Silver solder ¼ oz hard, ¼ oz medium and ¼ oz easy, may be ordered from any supplier. (Rio Grande has the Silver Sheet Solder Assortment Item #: 101199)
Flax
Tools list
Students, please bring the tools as listed, they are the most-common tools for jewelers.
1. One flush cutter for thin wires
2. Three tweezers. Very important tool for the filigree process, similar tweezers may be ordered from any supplier OR from Rio Grande $ 2.50 each. Blue Heron #AA Stainless Precision Pattern Tweezers Item #: 115018 (we will be file-cutting and reshaping the tweezers in class)
3. A set of fine mini files.
4. Compressed charcoal block may be ordered from any supplier OR # 502025 from Rio Grande OR Vermiculite Soldering Block, 5-1/2″
Item #: 502054
http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Vermiculite-Soldering-Block-5-1-2/502054?Pos=5 OR may be ordered from any supplier.
5. Magnifier optivisor. Select one from any supplier (the links are only for references:) http://www.riogrande.com/Search/optivisor
6. Pliers, one round-nose and one flat-nose.
7. Flux for silver and a brush. http://www.riogrande.com/Product/My_dash_T_dash_Flux/504006?Pos=2 The link is only for reference and you may order from any other suppliers similar product.
8. Pumice wheel, or pink polishers, knife edge with the mandrel for polishing the work the last day in class. From Rio Grande for the knife edge # 332-663/10 & flat wheel 7/8″ diameter x 1/8″ W # 332-836. Also the mandrel # 333-105
Pumice wheels may be ordered from any supplier.
9. Butane torch form any supplier.
Rio Grande # 500086. OR another supplier to purchase a small butane torch from is www.harborfreight.com
10. OPTIONAL if you have any size small round mandrel bring it with you.
The instructor will be sharing the following tools for the day to use in class.
These tools are essential for a jewelers studio and used on many different applications. You may consider purchasing them for your studio. If you have any of these tools, please bring them with you.
1. Digital caliper. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Caliper OR another supplier
2. Steel block 2.5”x 2.5”x 3/16” or up to 6”x 6”x 1/2” steel blocks.
3. Bench vise
4. Hooks for twisting the metal threads.
5. File for reshaping the tweezers
6. Tarnish remover
7. BORAX diluted with denatured alcohol. This is a very excellent way to prevent tarnishing
8. Propane torch with a hose. An excellent tool for filigree and many other applications.
https://www.bernzomatic.com/Products/Hand-Torches/Instant-On-Off/BZ8250HT
Available at Home Depot, Lowes and ACE hardware. If not in stock they can order it for you.
9. Round mandrels 3/16″ & 1/4″ & small graduate mandrel
